But having 2 double pole, triple throw switches opens a LOT of possibilities for wildness with the wiring. So here I'm going to explain my own diagrams a little bit more....

STOCK FENDER MUSTANG WIRIING

The stock Fender Mustang style circuit, and by extention, the Jag-Stang, works like this. Basically, each pickup's wires goes into the farthest two pins on the switch - one for hot, one for ground - and when the switch is in the middle, the connection is severed entirely from the circuit - resulting in an "off" position. When slid in one direction, the ground and hot wires are wired in "in-phase", and in the other position, the hot and ground leads on the pickup are reversed or "out-of-phase".

The in-phase function works by having both pickups hot leads going to the volume control's input lug, and both negative leads going to ground when both pickups are on. This results in that fruity, jangly sound similar to a clean Telecaster or Gibson guitar, that we are all familiar with. For me, this sound is very useful when playing clean.

Having one pickup sound +=+ and -=- and the other +=- and -=+ - results in an Out-Of-Phase sound, that clonky, Peter Green kind of sound that gained some popularity in the 70's. This is a sound that's pretty unique to the Mustang, Jag-Stang, and Duo-Sonic II in the Fender back-catalog.

The advantage of this wiring is that you get some slight variation from being able to alter the polarity of both pickups wiring. That said, the difference is negotiable at best and not really that important, and is negated by a major disadvantage - ease of changing pickups out in a live scenario. The problem with the original Mustang circuit is that you no longer have one switch to manage, but TWO, and that can make things pretty difficult if you have to change the direction of both switches and are not familiar with using your fingers to change them. Also, having an off position right under where most modern player's playing hand is can lead to some pretty embarassing moments on stage, like turning your guitar off inadvertantly mid solo.

CREEPINGNET PASSIVE MUSTANG WIRING

What this modification does, is alters the Mustang Circuit so that the bridge position switch becomes a pickup selector, and the neck pickup retains it's ability to be put in or out of phase, and removed from the circuit entirely - basically making the Mustang wholly capable of anything a Gibson can do. This is the same concept as I did with my Jag-Stang abd my customized 71' Music Master.

How it works, is that the bridge pickup goes into the bottom lug of the "selector", and the neck pickup - post-secondary switch - the "top". So the position of the bridge position switch correlates to which pickup(s) is/are active. The neck pickup goes through the same arrangement that it did before - allowing for in-phase, and out-of-phase operation, as well as an option to turn off th eneck pickup completely, allowing for a very popular technique used by 1970's and 1980's guitarists with Gibsons who turned the neck volume knob all the way down, and then rapid-fire the toggle to "chop" the sound up.

The benefits of this means rapid-fire pickup selection, without any physical alteration to the guitar's body or pickguard, and the ability to still retain the out-of-phase sound of a regular Mustang, as well as the ability to remove the neck pickup completely, allowing that to also be used as an "off" position that's not easily bumped while playing the guitar normally (if you're a bridge picfkup dominant user like me).