This page is sort of an introduction to the components used in said pedals and what they are used for. Be prepared to have your mind blown. There's a lot of basic stuff in here, but I have tried to explain advanced stuff as well as I can (if I even understand it all that well).

And all of these components are not hand-drawn in guitar diagrams like I do for the guitars. Guitar wiring is pretty simple, and could be done using schematics, but sometimes it's easier to read a wiring diagram that photoish-ly looks like the inside of your guitar, but that's because, guitar circuits (the one inside your electric guitar) are pretty simple, it's jusually just a pot (or a few), a switch (or a few), and pickup(s) + an output jack, and that's about it. It's almost like a electronic game of chutes and latters in there.

But guitar pedals is when we get beyond the basic idea of there just being a "hot path" (positive leads) and a "ground path" (negative leads all tied together). This is where we will need to get more and more into electronics theory, and that means, learning schematics, and how to read them. See that I put Schematic Symbols with the parts up above - that way you can understand them. Typically, schematic symbols show how the parts work mechanically inside (in the form of mechanical parts).

Above is about the average sized breadboard I use for most of my guitar circuits, though lately I've been doubling them up. The edges are used for "power rails" - ie, a place where you can have a source of power for your project. Each group of 10 pins though, has to be jumpred to the next.

The two middle sets of unbroken perforations are organized into "columns" from this view - iea, each horizontal row from the separation in the center, are electronically joined. The idea is, you can stick a DIP (Dual Inline Package, aka, microchip with 2 sets of pins, one set per side) - in the middle of the breadboard over the separation and have each individual pin have at least a few holes to connect discreet components to.

Sometimes you can remove the rails on the sides, or even attach multiple rows of boards together to create a larger breadboard. I'm building a custom - pedal test enclosure for this purpose, which will allow me to develop the circuits I'm building more easily (and even put them on my pedalboard - and protect them from moody cats who messed up the last few projects I was working on by knocking them off the shelf).

Veroboard is a specific brand of prototyping board used most often for electronics projects. Basically, it's laid out almost identical to a breadboard - except the connections are done using SOLDER instead of mere friction of mechanical metal contacts.

Prototyping Board is basically a cheaper alternative where instead of rows of contacts (some which might need to be cut to break contact), just has holes and various pins in it. Instead, traces are created by either connecting jumper wires or "drag soldering" solder across the contacts to make traces on either side.

Home built PCBs are possible too. How these are made, is you buy copper clad board, and then use a ironed on printout of the traces using a laser printer, or a marking pen, or even just paint pen or sharpie, to block out where your traces are. Then the board is put in a bath of Ferric Chloride for about 15 minutes (use gloves, that shit will stain your hands), in sunlight preferrably (and outside), and the Ferric Chloride will eat away the exposed copper, leaving a PCB with functional traces on it. Another method I've seen is cutting away the unmarked copper with a Dremel rotary tool as well at a very shallow depth - that works as well.

Or you can get a proper PCB (or more likely a batch) made by a prototyping service, such as PCBWay or others who can make a professional circuit board for your project that looks like a production board. This might be the easiest route, and it's likely where I'm going with my designs when all my Ferric Chloride is used up. It also might be easier to make double or multi-layer circuit boards using their process.